The heat is blistering, rising up from the ground creating a mirage, the image reflecting off the salt encrusted ground. It's in the middle of February 2005, and the heat is searing. I'm there as a part of a group from an NGO based in Pondicherry to teach field techniques to a group of marin biology students from the US.
The place - Point Calimere.
Location - East coast of southern Tamil Nadu where the coastline takes a sharp turn to the west, with Sri Lanka about 43km to the south, across the Palk Strait.
An introduction to any place is exciting, its new and there's a sense of adventure in the air. But that soon evaporates due to the heat. Armed with dollops of sunblock and lots of bottles of drinking water, we set out to conquer the seaside sanctuary.
Its a beautiful place, as any place in its natural, pristine self is. Its also very small for a sanctuary, barely 30sq.km. The beauty of the place lies in its vegetation. One half of the sanctuary is open grassland (with loads of
Prosopis, an invasive plant) and the other half is the largest section of tropical dry-evergreen forest in South Asia (and the thickest that I have ever seen). Making this unusual place a home are spotted deer (which, by the way, do not belong there....they were introduced into the area years ago), black buck, the only population of wild horses in the Subcontinent, wild boar, jackals, a myriad of birdlife (migratory as well as residential), and of course, the almost feral cattle blissfully grazing on the salt encrusted grass.
We visited Point Calimere a couple of months after the tsunami. The entire grassland area was covered with a thick layer of algae and salt, rendering the surface extremely slippery. Along the beach lay a few scattered bones of the unfortunate casualties of the tsunami, washed ashore from other places in South Asia. The local authorities had cleaned up as much as was possible by them, burying most of the bodies. The animals found higher ground (the highest being barely 4msl), but human life suffered.
The forest section was....wow! To get to some of the places we needed to, we had to do the army crawl, and not one of us were left without torn clothes or torn skin....its a miracle that our measuring tape (used to measure girth of vegetation) suffered no damage from the deadly thorns! Crawling along on all fours also meant that some of us had to deal with fire ants too....not a very pleasant experience. But the forest was our only respite from the incessant heat.
And then there were the tidal swamps to deal with. Accessability to certain parts of the sanctuary meant having to wade through slimy, algal pools. Our sneakers weren't really enjoying the experience....whoever thought about inventing the water-shoe is a genius (but they don't come in my size). But it sure was a whole load of fun.
Walk northward to the shore and there stands the perfect little lighthouse. Its a scene straight out of Enid Blyton! Red and white, completely made of iron. It was set up by the British, but lies unused now. Climb up to the top and the view is breath-taking. Thats when you realize why the place is called a "Point". The triangular piece of land jutting out into the sea (look up a map, if you need clarification!). The narrow stretch of beach visible for miles and the beginning of the Palk Strait, the mirky, narrow and shallow body of water that separates Sri Lanka from the Indian mainland.
A century old lighthouse erected by the Chola dynasty, now stands as a stump....made smaller by the force of the tsunami.
Wait a while and you might be lucky enough to see dolphins, and maybe even turtles during the nesting season. The local forest department has set up a small artificial hatchery for the turtle eggs, as feral dogs and jackals posed a constant threat.
Flamigoes, pelicans, herons, terns and a variety of ducks can be seen across the road where the salt marches provide excellent habitat for them. The beach along the lenght of the sanctuary though narrow, boasts of some of the most beautiful shells that I've ever seen. A quaint fishing village (rendered not so quaint by smuggling across borders) provides an almsot perfect backdrop to the scene. Ignore the effects of the tsunami and its the perfect seaside sanctuary for anyone, human or animal.
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Point Calimere Wildlife Sanctuary,
tsunami,
wild horses,
black bucks,
tropical dry evergreen forest
